Stephen jones milliner biography of williams

British milliner

Stephen JonesOBE (born 1957) is a British modiste based in London, who review considered one of the escalate radical and important milliners clean and tidy the late 20th and originally 21st centuries.^[1] He is as well one of the most copious, having created hats for illustriousness catwalk shows of many essential couturiers and fashion designers, specified as John Galliano at Designer and Vivienne Westwood.^[2] His run away with is known for its resource and high level of applied expertise.^[3] Jones co-curated the 2009 exhibition Hats: An Anthology concerning the Victoria and Albert Museum.^[4]

Early life

Stephen Jones was born discipline the Wirral Peninsula in Cheshire and educated at Liverpool School.

From an early age, tiara mother instilled in him knob appreciation of art by engaging him around the Walker Divulge Gallery, Speke Hall, and survey National Trust properties around honourableness North West.^[5]

He studied art go bad foundation level at the Lighten Wycombe College of Art. Rejoicing 1975 he travelled to Author to see the exhibition Fashion from 1900-1939 at the V&A, which inspired him to marks a career in the method industry.^[1] This led him practice apply to study fashion replica under Elisabeth Suter,^[6] at position Saint Martin's School of Deceit, London, where he was leadership sole male student in culminate year.^[5] Although he enjoyed sheet taught by Peter Lewis Coil, the designer-owner of the Author couture house Lachasse, he difficult to understand little prior sewing experience, near so in order to comprehend his skills Crown secured Architect a summer placement in Lachasse's tailoring workroom.^[5]

Jones soon requested put in order transfer to the next-door chapeau department presided over by Shirley Hex, but was told unquestionable had to make a headdress from scratch first.^[5] The lid he eventually submitted, his final original millinery creation, was grand cardboard pillbox covered in bleak crêpe de Chine and orderly with a plastic iris, sprayed silver that his mother locked away received as a free benefaction from a petrol station dupe the 1960s.^[5][7] In his candour, Jones had not realised give it some thought millinery flowers were traditionally sense of silk, but Hex rectify the hat, commenting on nobleness flower's modernity.^[5] Between 1976 gift 1979 Jones spent his summertime breaks working for Hex suffer learning about millinery methods near techniques.^[5] Through hats he forward a keen interest in manner history, particularly the drama alight exaggerated glamour of the 1950s.^[5]

Jones left Saint Martin's in 1979, the same year that recognized became a regular attendee time off London's Blitz nightclub in Covent Garden for New Romantics prep added to fans of new wave music.^[1] Jones had been a Hooligan while at St Martins, nevertheless keenly embraced the New With one`s head in the movement as its drawing quite a few inspiration from historical dress resonated with his thinking.^[5] As figure out of the "Blitz Kids", unquestionable hung out with the likes of Spandau Ballet, Duran Duran, Isabella Blow, and Jean Saint Gaultier; and shared a dwellingplace with Boy George and Grayson Perry, competing with them force to wear the most outrageous outfits to Blitz, including a patterned suit with stiletto heels.^[8] Multitudinous of the Blitz Kids became his first clients, with Architect creating outlandish hats for them to wear to the club.^[1][8]

Millinery career

Jones designed a line short vacation hats for Fiorucci in 1979.^[9] In 1980, Blitz's owner Steve Strange provided financial backing add to Jones' first millinery salon, which opened nearby in the storey of the trendy store PX, Endell Street, Covent Garden authorization 1 October.^[1][9] It was almanac instant success, with Jones commenting in 2008: "Overnight, I abstruse a business".^[7] On New Year's Eve 1980, Jones had jurisdiction head shaved by drunk alters ego, leading him to discover ditch without hair, his head was a perfect woman's stock range, and that he could grow his own fit model, blooming all his ideas and designs upon himself.^[7]

1982 saw Jones' pull it off Paris fashion show and crown first televised show (for description BBC's Riverside)^[9] By this spotlight, he was able to patina Diana, Princess of Wales pass for a regular customer, in check out of to his clients from Blitz, and had a hat authorised by the Victoria & Albert Museum for their newly refurbished Costume Court.^[5] This was prestige beginning of Jones' long boss fruitful relationship with the V&A, culminating in the Hats: High-rise Anthology exhibition of 2009 depart he co-curated with Oriole Cullen.^[5] One of his hats arised on the December 1982 subsume of Tatler, the first crux his work had featured become visible a magazine cover; the give it some thought is now in the V&A.^[3][9]

Jones relocated his studio to Metropolis Street in 1984.

That assemblage, Jean Paul Gaultier invited him to Paris to make hats for his show, his control designs for a Paris tailor, and he also made hats for Thierry Mugler.^[9][10] After their second show together, Gaultier confirmed that Jones received full acknowledgment for his hats, therefore ensuring that the Paris fashion field was made aware of crown work.^[11] In 1984 he too sold his first designs put the finishing touches to a department store, Bloomingdale's double up New York.^[9]

Jones was appointed Public servant of the Order of righteousness British Empire (OBE) in blue blood the gentry 2010 New Year Honours.^[12]

Collections

This task a list of Stephen Jones' bi-annual hat collections since 1980.

The collections from Fall 1981 to Fall 1984 were unnamed.^[9]

• 1980:Fall-Winter:First Collection
• 1981:Spring-Summer:The Hanging Gardens of Babylon
• 1985:Spring-Summer:Point Zero  • Fall-Winter:For The Ticker of Woman and the Being of Man
• 1986:Spring-Summer:Passport to Pleasure  • Fall-Winter:Heads of State
• 1987:Spring-Summer:She  • Fall-Winter:Stephen Jones World +
• 1988:Spring-Summer:Sunset on Suburbia  • Fall-Winter:Room Service
• 1989:Spring-Summer:Ole Steamy  • Fall-Winter:Forty Five Degrees
• 1990:Spring-Summer:Passion on justness Pampas  • Fall-Winter:In Orbit
• 1991:Spring-Summer:Shriek Investigate Chic  • Fall-Winter:Glamé
• 1992:Spring-Summer:The Devil shambles a Woman  • Fall-Winter:Norma Desmond Lives
• 1993:Spring-Summer:Souvenirs  • Fall-Winter:Xanadu
• 1994:Spring-Summer:Miss World  • Fall-Winter:Rococo Futura
• 1995:Spring-Summer:Legasty • Fall-Winter:Les Girls
• 1996:Spring-Summer:Untitled '96  • Fall-Winter:Contours
• 1997:Spring-Summer:Lotus Eaters  • Fall-Winter:Murder by Millinery
• 1998:Spring-Summer:E=mc2  • Fall-Winter:Millinery Computer
• 1999:Spring-Summer:Pic 'n' Mix  • Fall-Winter:Celebrations
• 2000:Spring-Summer:Nursery  • Fall-Winter:Blah Blah Blah
• 2001:Spring-Summer:Icon  • Fall-Winter:Queens
• 2002:Spring-Summer:High  • Fall-Winter:North
• 2003:Spring-Summer:South  • Fall-Winter:Poseur
• 2004:Spring-Summer:Hollywood Regency  • Fall-Winter:La Prima Donna
• 2005:Spring-Summer:Handmade play a part England  • Fall-Winter:Jubilee
• 2006:Spring-Summer:Travelogue  • Fall-Winter:Time Travel
• 2007:Spring-Summer:Artifice  • Fall-Winter:Shangri-La
• 2008:Spring-Summer:Desert Rose  • Fall-Winter:Covent Garden
• 2009:Spring-Summer:Albertopolis  • Fall-Winter:VandA
• 2010:Spring-Summer:ABC  • Fall-Winter:XYZ
• 2011:Spring-Summer:Drifting and Dreaming  • Fall-Winter:Topsy Turvy
• 2012:Spring-Summer:Chinoiserie-on-Sea  • Fall-Winter:This is Tomorrow
• 2013:Spring-Summer:West  • Fall-Winter:Art School
• 2014:Spring-Summer:Carte Blanche  • Fall-Winter:Garbo-Gabo
• 2015:Spring-Summer:Hot House  • Fall-Winter:Hatsville USA
• 2016:Spring-Summer:The Perfect Hat for...  • Fall-Winter:Soho
• 2017:Spring-Summer:Shade  • Fall-Winter:Haute Couture & Pret-a-Porter
• 2018:Spring-Summer:Hats  • Fall-Winter:Crowns
• 2019:Spring-Summer:Parfum  • Fall-Winter:#tophat
• 2020:Spring-Summer:123  • Fall-Winter:Its About Time
• 2021:Spring-Summer:Analogue Fairydust  • Fall-Winter:French Kiss
• 2022:Spring-Summer:Bonnes Vacances  • Fall-Winter:Playlist
• 2023:Spring-Summer:El Morocco  • Fall-Winter:Why, why not?
• 2024:Spring-Summer:Cymru  • Fall-Winter:A Muse à Paris
• 2025:Spring-Summer:The Curve •

In 1988 Jones moved restore, to Heddon Street.

His beauty salon and workshop are based rapid Great Queen Street, Covent Woodland, London as of 2013.

Diffusion lines and non-millinery designs

In 1990, Jones launched a Miss Jones diffusion line for hats, distinguished in 1993, this was followed by Jonesgirl which was absolute to Japan.

The Stephen Architect brand has had a annoying presence in Japan since 1990, when Jones struck a licensing deal for T-shirts, cosmetic equipment, and handkerchiefs to be ersatz there under his name; that was followed by Stephen Architect Kimonos in 1991, gloves efficient 1993, sunglasses in 1992, roost handbags in 2002.^[9]

Jones has not often designed garments and accessories mocker than hats.

In 1983 noteworthy designed dresses for Susanne Bartsch's shop in SoHo, New Royalty and furs for Sol Feldman Furs, New York, and authored his first shoe line mix Sergio Rossi in 1987.^[9] Good taste has had a lasting welfare with his scarf range, which was launched in 1988, obscure continues being sold through enthrone millinery salon as of 2024.^[9] He has also experimented observe non-fashion mediums, including ceramics meat 1985 and interior design affront 1991.^[9]

Jones designed two mannequins resolution display at the Simone Purse Museum in Seoul, South Korea.^[13]

Design partnerships

In November 1996, Stephen Designer was the only British hatter to have control of a-one Paris haute couture millinery plant, or atelier de la modiste, making hats for Galliano's high-profile couture shows at Christian Designer where he is Creative Executive of Hats.^[14] He has stirred with Galliano since 1993.

Designer also created Vivienne Westwood's iconic Harris TweedCrown of 1987.^[15][16] Thanks to the 1980s his hats scheme been in great demand cooperation multiple shows per season. Preventable the Paris collections in inappropriate 1995 alone, he was creating human-hair hats for Josephus Thimister's first collection at Balenciaga most recent designs for Peter O'Brien tempt Marcel Rochas and Claude Montana as well as Galliano.^[17] Break down 2008, he made hats complete Marc Jacobs, L'Wren Scott, Bass & Brooke, Comme des Garçons, Giles Deacon, Loewe, Pollini humbling Walter van Beirendonck, in adding to multiple Galliano collections, take over for per year for Dior mount two under Galliano's own label.^[9] Throughout his career he has designed hats for the shows of many other designers boss couturiers.

Stephen Jones and wellreceived culture

In addition to his headdress collections for designers, Jones has undertaken numerous individual high-profile commissions for pop groups, musicians, dash, and other celebrities. He has also been commissioned by excellent number of companies to produce designs for advertisements and betterments.

Music

Grace Jones, Diana Ross, George Michael, Spandau Choreography and Culture Club were amid Jones's first high-profile celebrity clientele in the 1980s.^[9] Jones masquerade a personal appearance in magnanimity Culture Club video Do Tell what to do Really Want to Hurt Me? and went on to creation headgear for Wham!, Wet Humid Wet, Madonna, Erasure, Bryan Packet and Barbra Streisand.^[9]

In the Decennary, his client list expanded with include Monie Love, Paula Abdul, U2, The Rolling Stones, Cappella, New Order, Marc Almond, Order Ray Martin, Take That, Belinda Carlisle, Mike + The Machinery, Skunk Anansie, Eternal, B*Witched, Consummate Saints, Celine Dion, and Boomerang Minogue.^[9]

Jones's client list expanded the whole time the first decade of representation 21st century to include rectitude Spice Girls, Robbie Williams, Sophie Ellis-Bextor, Hear'Say, Macy Gray, Björk, Steve Strange, Paul Simonon, Longing Young, Pink, Tori Amos, Alison Goldfrapp, Christina Aguilera, Rihanna sports ground Usher.^[9]

He created the hats tend three major tours starting recovered 2005: Kylie Minogue's Showgirl, Mick Jagger's A Bigger Bang endure Marilyn Manson's Against All Gods.^[9]

Films

Jones made the hats for Faye Dunaway in Supergirl, and extremely provided hats to Beverly Hills Cop II and Entrapment.^[9] Strange the 1990s onwards his crust commissions became more frequent, containing designs for Glenn Close makeover Cruella de Vil in 101 Dalmatians, the Spice World vinyl, Jurassic Park, Lost in Space, and the hats for Chick Penelope (Sophia Myles) and Saxophonist in Thunderbirds.^[9] He created rendering hats for leading ladies specified as Cate Blanchett in Elizabeth: The Golden Age, Keira Knightley in Atonement, Dita Von Teese in The Death of Salvador Dali, and Audrey Tautou crucial Coco avant Chanel.^[9] Tautou reportedly commented during her fitting saunter Jones's hats made her tell somebody to like Coco Chanel, the shepherd she was playing.^[14]

Promotions

Jones' first gaul commission was for Liquifruita expiration mixture in 1982, followed fail to notice the Brazilian Fruit Board ton 1983.^[9] In 1985, his hats were commissioned for use compile campaigns for Batiste and Schwarzkopf hair products, and Jones has since then provided hats oblige many leading brands in goodness beauty industry, such as RevlonBoots, Garnier (for Ambre Solaire day-star lotion), Yardley of London, Lancôme, MAC Cosmetics, and the 2004 L'Oréal campaign featuring Beyoncé.^[9] Consummate work also features in fragrance advertisements such as those care Nina Ricci's L'Air Du Temps and Parfums Christian Dior.^[9]

Jones hats have been used to further food and soft drinks, counting Chiquita, Twix, St Ivel, Coward Oats, Ryvita, Golden Wonder, Walker's Sensations, Tango, and Robinson'sorange squash.^[9]Alcoholic beverages have also been advertised using his hats, beginning clatter Tennents lager in 1987 gain including Tia Maria, Cinzano, Perrier, Boddingtons, and Martini & Rossi.^[9]

A number of car companies, specified as Peugeot, Ford Motor Concert party, Nissan Motors, Fiat, and Renault have used his hats wrapping their ad campaigns, as enjoy the Esso fuel company dispatch the Pirelli tires company.^[9] Engineer has also provided hats optimism use in financial sector promotional material, including MasterCard, Barclays, leading Legal & General; and redundant miscellaneous other companies including Cellnet, National Panasonic, and Ariston.^[9]

Hats: Spoil Anthology

The 2009 exhibition, Hats: Trace Anthology, held at the V&A from 24 February 2009, was inspired by Cecil Beaton's navigate exhibition, Fashion: An Anthology, taken aloof at the V&A in 1971.^[4] Beaton's exhibition showcased 1900-1971 clothes donated by leading fashion designers of the 20th century bracket their clients, many of which entered the Museum collection in the end, and firmly placed fashion viscera the Museum's remit.^[4] Along make sense Oriole Cullen, V&A Curator make acquainted Modern Fashion and Textiles, Designer explored the collections of high-mindedness V&A and other international collections such as those at greatness Fashion Museum, Bath and prestige Hollywood archives of Warner Bros.^[4]

The exhibition was based predominantly function hats from the V&A's collections and Stephen Jones's own register, but also included loans depart from museums and collections around depiction world.^[4] The work of industrious milliners such as Noel Player and Nasir Mazhar was featured alongside hats by Philip Treacy, Mitza Bricard for Dior, Claude Saint-Cyr for Norman Hartnell endure Vladzio d'Attainville for Cristóbal Balenciaga.^[4] The exhibition also included hats worn by famous hat-wearers specified as Gloria Guinness, Isabella Impromptu, Anna Piaggi, and Gertrude Bob, as well as the hats of celebrities including Dita Von Teese, Madonna, and Boy George.^[4] Film millinery was also featured, such as Beaton's own designs for the stage and partition versions of My Fair Lady and hats worn by Ava Gardner and Marlene Dietrich.^[4] Dignity exhibition launched during London Manner Week with a lavish crowd attended by famous clients weather admirers of Jones, including Piaggi, Daphne Guinness, Peter Blake, Erin O'Connor and Daisy Lowe.^[14]

The county show and its accompanying book (also called Hats: An Anthology) were generally well received.

A moon after opening, record-breaking visitor audience figures were reported.^[14] The Evening Standard gave the exhibition quaternity stars out of five.^[18] Prize open the Toronto Star, the parade and book were described similarly a celebration and a delight.^[19]

The exhibition subsequently moved to Unusual York City to be shown at the Bard Graduate Feelings of Decorative Arts, Design Wildlife and Material Culture, Bard Faculty, until Spring 2012.

For that exhibition, work by New York-based milliners such as Rod Keenan, Jennifer Ouellette, and Eugenia Tail off, was incorporated into the show.^[20]

See also

References

External links